07/07/2015

elements of structure: THE SHOULDER

By Thierry Augustin

At Alexander Nash, we believe that dressing up is an art. And as we ‘undress’ that art, we want to explore the inner workings of the bespoke process. Every masterpiece begins with a canvas and today we’ll be discussing an essential component of quality suiting and a crucial element to our core value of proper fit: the shoulder. 

Easily one of the most difficult things to get right, the shoulder of a suit jacket can take many forms from various influences. In cases Neapolitan, the unstructured shoulder will carry no padding and traditionally feature ‘shirring’, that slight puckering where the sleeve meets the chest panel at the shoulder for more casual functions. The Roman variant is more broad with padding that serves to accentuate that classic ‘V-shape’ of a man’s upper body. A roped shoulder is more pronounced, with a sleeve head that peaks slightly above the natural shoulder line for a more solid look. The pagoda shoulder is least likely to be seen off the runway, an exaggerated, pointed expanse that is atypical at best for the modern gentleman. 

At Alexander Nash, we take our cues from the fine folks of Savile Row and marry the refinement of classic British design with a bit of American bravado. Our style features light padding with a vertical drop at the shoulder for strong, masculine appeal that doesn’t make you feel like you’re wearing a box. Join us again as we discuss what is bespoken and ‘undress the art of dressing up’.

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